HGB Ep. 603 - Margam Castle

This Month in History - The Battle of Sedan (Suh-dawn)

In the month of September, on the 2nd, in 1870, Emperor Napoleon III surrendered to the Prussians during the Battle of Sedan. Napoleon III ruled France from December 1852 to September 1870. He rose to power after a coup and referendum in 1851 and was the nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte I. The Battle of Sedan was a pivotal and decisive battle of the Franco-Prussian War. The war began in July of 1870 and France expected a quick victory. However on September 1st, the Prussian army surrounded Napoleon and his troops which numbered over 100,000 soldiers. The Prussians used superior organizational skills and employed exceptional artillery expertise during the intense battle. The following day, realizing there was no way for escape, Emperor Napoleon III surrendered. This event led to the collapse of the Second French Empire, thus ending the Bonaparte Dynasty, and resulted in Prussia's eventual victory and proclamation of the German Empire. 

Margam Castle (Suggested by: Lyn Beasley)

The visually stunning Margam Castle is located in Margam, Wales and while the 269,000 square foot structure resembles a castle, it really is technically just a country house. A very large country house. The reason it is referred to as a castle though is because it was made to look like a castle complete with an octagonal tower, turrets and battlements. While this was never a fortification, there are hill forts that dot the landscape, as do burial cairns. And what really makes this site remarkable is the nearby Margam Abbey, which lies in partial ruins. There are several spirits that call the castle home. Join us for the history and hauntings of Margam Castle. 

The area here has over 4,000 years of continuous habitation. The history here dates back to pre-historic times with relics dating to the Bronze and Iron Age and there is evidence of Roman and Celtic occupation. Margam started off as the cwmwd (koom wood) of Tir Iarll (Teer Yar-thll), in ancient times. A hill fort named Mynydd-y-Castell (Munith uh Cass-tell) was built here and there are still remains of that here. After the Norman invasion of Wales, Robert, 1st Earl of Gloucester, and Lord of Glamorgan, gave the land to the Cistercians. The name Margam came with the founding of the Margam Abbey by the Cistercians in 1147. Prolific abbot and mystic St. Bernard of Clairvaux (Clair Voe) greatly expanded the Cistercian Order and this abbey played a significant part in getting his writing out there. He also revived Benedictine monastic life and advised multiple popes. King Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries in the 1530s and so in 1536, Margam Abbey was sold to Sir Rice Mansel. The abbey church would be retained as a parish church and it continues to be that today. The other buildings of the monastery would be sold off and some fell into ruins, like the twelve-sided Chapter House. 

Eventually the Talbot family would have possession of the Margam property through the female descended line of the Mansels. The Talbot family were a branch of the Earls of Shrewsbury. One of the monastery buildings was opened as the Margam Stones Museum. This is a little building next to the abbey church and contains 30 inscribed stones and crosses dating back to sixth-century Wales. These had served as milestones on Roman roads. One of the crosses is the Cross of Cobelin, which features a carved hunting scene. An effigy of a 14th century knight dressed in chain mail is here as well and he has a small dragon at the foot of his shield. And there is a grotesque gargoyle designed to void rainwater down its back. 

Margam would become an important part of the industrial base because it had a good harbor, named for the Talbot family, Port Talbot, and there were coal deposits. Coal mining in the parish took off in the late 18th century. Port Talbot would become a community of industrial workers. Margam would then be a suburb of Port Talbot. Urbanization would change the landscape, but Margam County Park preserved the history and the land. A deer herd that is here was thought to have been brought by the Romans. The park and estate covers 850 acres. The main part of the property is, of course, the castle. The castle is described as a "late Georgian country house," but it has many of the elements of a castle. This was the second estate built here. Despite owning the estates of Penrice and Oxwich, Sir Rhys Mansel built another estate here at Margam in the 1530s and this eventually was demolished. The Margam Castle that stands today was built for Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot and was designed by Thomas Hopper in the Tudor Revival style. Christopher was born in 1803 and everyone called him Kit. He loved to race yachts and was an accomplished musician. Kit collected art and was very good at chess. And he loved architecture and when it came to designing his home, he knew what he wanted. Talbot asked the architect Hopper to borrow elements from the family's ancestral home Lacock Abbey in Wiltshire and Melbury House in Dorset. Construction was started in 1830 and was completed in 1835. The castle's exterior was made from ashlar stone taken from the nearby Pyle quarry and features an elaborate Gothic porch, oriel and lancet windows, groups of chimney stacks, an octagonal tower and irregular gables and turrets and heraldic decor. 

The interior has a stunning, immense staircase hall that really has to be seen because words don't do it justice. A fire gutted the building in 1977, but its grandeur remains. Originally, the family rooms were set around a small courtyard on the west side of the terrace and people entered through an elaborate porch on the north side. The large quantity of windows that surround the octagonal tower, stream light down onto the staircase and reveals all the amazing plasterwork. Kit and his wife, Charlotte, filled the home with their four children. He passed away in 1890 as the richest commoner in Wales and the estate passed onto his daughter Emily Charlotte Talbot because his only son had died in 1876 due to a hunting accident. Emily made vast improvements to the property. When she died, her will gave the castle to her nephew, but it was adminstered through trustees who decided to auction off all the contents in 1941 and the estate itself was sold off in 1942. This property had been occupied by Sir Ryhs Mansel’s direct male descendants for six generations over 200 years. The castle was used by the military during World War II and then it was empty. Today, the castle and park is owned and administered by Neath Port Talbot County Borough Council.   

One of the unique extra structures, other than those left from the abbey, is the Orangery, which predates the current castle. We had never heard of an Orangery until a week ago when we watched the Thursday Murder Club on Netflix - and if you haven't watched that you should - and the place where the murder club meets is the Orangery of the historic estate where it was filmed. Or at least its supposed to be. The producers had it built. The Orangery lives up to its name because it housed a large collection of orange, lemon and citron trees that were inherited by Thomas Talbot. Construction on the Orangery started in 1787 and was completed in 1793 and measures 327 feet long, making it the longest in Britain. Architect Anthony Keck designed it. The collection of citrus trees predates that though with a gardener’s catalogue from 1727 listing more than 70 plants at the property. The Orangery has a row of 27 round-headed windows on the south side. It was heated by coal fires with chimneys that ran along the back wall. An east pavilion housed marble statues and busts, only one of which remains in the Orangery today. It's a life size 
statue of the Roman Emperor Lucius Verus. A collection of orange trees was maintained up until World War II. They were put outside and died during the winter weather. The Orangery was restored and reopened by the Queen during her Silver Jubilee visit in June 1977. 

William Henry Fox Talbot was a member of the family and he visited Margam often. We'll call him Henry. He was a scientist and inventor and one of his focuses was photography and he was a pioneer in that field. One of the processes he came up with was the salted paper, which produced positive prints from negatives and, obviously, used ordinary table salt to blot and dry a wet sheet of writing paper that had a strong solution of silver nitrate on the other side. The paper darkened and then was exposed to light  and a stronger solution of salt was used to stop exposure. It's chemistry, so way over our heads but it worked well. He also came up with calotype, which was paper coated with silver iodide. The term is Greek for beautiful impression. The silver chloride made paper sensitive to darkening when exposed to light. A draw back was that the exposure had to last for at least an hour. Imagine sitting that long for a picture. We've only seen examples with buildings because, uh yeah, whose sitting that long without moving? The castle was something that he used as a subject in many of his photographic experiments. And speaking of Margam and photography, this is the location of the earliest known Welsh photograph, which was a daguerreotype taken by Reverend Calvert Richard Jones on March 9, 1841. 

Visitors and guides and investigators claim that there are strange things that happen at the castle. There are several spirits here. Some of them are children, which are heard running around and giggling. Full-bodied apparitions of children in Victorian dress are seen. A security guard had just let in a group of investigators and sent them off to an upper floor when he had an experience with the children ghosts. He was standing by himself, looking out a window when he heard children running and giggling outside the room where he was standing. he looked out into the hallway, even though he knew that the ghost hunting group was all adults. Of course, there was nobody there. A day history tour was being conducted and a couple who brought their young son with them was doing the tour and about halfway through the tour, they noticed that there son was missing. Panic ensued as everyone searched the castle for him and when he was finally found, his parents asked him what he was doing and why he had left the group and he told them that he was playing with the other kids. Of which there were none. 

Shadow figures are also seen and one of these figures is very tall and likes to hang out in the nursery. The nursery is said to be the most active spot in the castle. The Tapestry Room has strange noises and weird night anomalies. The ghost of a blacksmith is seen on the castle grounds. Emily Talbot has been seen walking around in the master bedroom and is said to be the lady in white seen on the stairs at times. Many of the ghost stories about the castle started to be reported during World War II by the soldiers who were being treated at the castle. They saw spirits inside and out on the grounds. 

The most active ghost in the castle, the spirit of Robert Scott who had been a gamekeeper that worked at the Castle for many years. A poacher had been on the grounds one day and when Robert confronted him, the poacher murdered him. This left the spirit of Robert very angry and that comes out through poltergeist like activity. One of his favorite things to do is to throw rocks at people. His full-bodied apparition is seen climbing the Gothic staircase. Psychic investigators that have come through claim that Robert is full of rage. 

Ghost Hunters International investigated many years ago and they claimed to capture on camera the floating figure of a monk wearing a white habit. They also had a monk identify itself as Brother Tom. They saw a shadow figure that they thought might be Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot. They heard the footsteps of a woman, perhaps Emily and these were in the master bedroom. And they got an EVP featuring a male voice ordering them to get out. Ghost hunter and author Peter Underwood wrote in the 1950s about a ghostly monk being seen many times in and around the ruins of Margam Abbey. The sightings were usually in the late afternoon or early evening.

The website There Be Ghosts wrote, "During a visit to Margam in 2016, my wife and I chatted with a park guide who told us the monk had been seen more recently in 2005. Apparently, a man walking his dog late one afternoon saw the monk walk out of and through the solid wood door on the south side of the church. As the man stood stupefied, with his dog cowering, the monk walked a short distance and then physically dissolved. The man’s dog was so traumatized by the encounter that it couldn’t be consoled for several days."

Amy from Amy's Crypt goes into haunted locations all around the world and like us, she rarely is scared by a place. But she says of Margam Castle that this is one of the scariest places she has ever investigated. Her partner Jared had a rock thrown at him while he was standing and looking out a window. And then he heard a very loud bang coming from down the hall. A little later there is a distant audible scream that Diane heard before Jared said he just heard a scream. Later, Amy and Jared went upstairs and they heard what sounded like children and then they heard a tap sound. Amy and Jared did an ESTES session on the grand staircase and they got a female voice that said, "I'm here" and then immediately "She's here" and when Amy asked who is she, Jared heard "Legion." Then Jared heard "Follow me" and Amy asked to follow where and the answer was "Up there" and then "here." Amy thought she saw some movement above her and she could hear something. When she asked if there was someone up there, Jared said "A lot" and when she asked who was making that noise, Jared said "People." A little later Amy was asking more about who was there and Jared answered "I was stationed." Then there was a bang and when Amy asked what made that noise Jared said "I'm close." There were two taps on the stairs behind Jared and he said "They're scaring him." Jared complained several times that his leg muscles were twitching during the ESTES method and it was really interesting because they showed that the camera caught some of this twitching and Amy said that this has happened before at other places and she wondered if it had something to do with going into a trance-like state. They got out a spirit box and immediately it sounded like a child yelling "Mommy." Later they asked how many children were in the house and the answer was seven.

Adelaide's Haunted Horizons has investigated the castle and Alison told Amy that her group felt the same way as Amy. This was one of the few places that has really scared them. The group was investigated in one of the further away rooms near the nursery and the group heard disembodied footsteps and the swishing of a dress outside the room. Inside the room they heard the audible sound of heavy breathing. The atmosphere felt very tense and then they heard the sound of a large stone being thrown and they found this near them. A security guard came in a little later and the group was away from the room and telling him what they had experienced when they all heard these loud booming noises coming from the nursery area. Alison described the sounds as very unnerving and they had no idea what had caused them. They also say on their website, "We conducted a brief ghost box session and appeared to get a couple of interesting responses, not least a voice (almost electronic) saying ‘Bastard’.  Why interesting?  Because it sounded like Kag’s voice, as if she was being mimicked. (This is one of their team members.) We soon moved to the bottom of the staircase, but apart from a couple of loud thuds from upstairs, whatever was in the building seemed less talkative now.  We did get one interesting noise that I am unsure how to describe. If you watch the video, I will let you make up your own mind on what it is as we have no idea!  Even our security man, Dave, who joined us at the end, had never heard this before.  We didn’t hear it audibly."

Project Fear investigated as well. They had rocks thrown at them. They left a team member alone at the castle, while the rest went to the Abbey. Supposedly, Robert Scott is seen at the abbey as are figures that look like monks. Light anomalies are also seen. The team member at the castle was sitting on the stairs and there was a very audible sound like something being dragged. Near the Abbey, the thermal camera showed something weird in the field and they found out that it was a statue, but its one of the creepiest statues I've ever seen like a mother wailing over a child with this wide gaping maw. We found more information on the castle's website, "This was created by Glynn Williams. ‘The Shout’ (made in 1982), is a depiction of a desperate kneeling mother holding the body of her dead child. From the information we have found it was completed as a memorial to the victims of the war in Lebanon, the shocking images of which had been broadcast at the time on TV. He also completed a similar sculpture called the ‘Mother of the Dead’. The strength of the Shout sculpture – the feeling it conveys – are evidenced by the fact that it was moved to a secluded location in the park as visitors found it too disturbing when initially placed in a more prominent position." They used a Spirit Box and asked who it is that people keep seeing out there. Could it be a monk named Tom? And then "shoot" came through the box making them think it was Robert Scott. The guy in the castle heard a bunch of footsteps running up the stairs after he went upstairs and it scared the crap out of him. He shouted over the walkie-talkie for the other group to return. It was very dramatic, but we could understand how it would be really freaky to be alone in that castle. They tried talking to whoever this was later and they got a "No" about communication. However, it did later indicate that it was Robert. When asked if he was the one trying to scare them out of the castle, he answered "no." Now interestingly, Chelsea and Dakota were in the Nursery with a Spirit Box and it said "seven." Now they assumed it was referencing the 7-foot tall shadow figure that has been seen in there, but we watched this after Amy's Crypt and they got seven as the number for the children. 

Margam Castle  is one of the most magnificent buildings around. It's a bummer that the interior suffered a bad fire, but it still looks amazing and it had such a creepy, Gothic feel to it, that the movie Da Vinci's Demons was filmed here and interior sets were built that were left behind. People claim this is one of the most haunted places in Britain. Is Margam Castle haunted? That is for you to decide!